Editors’ Picks The Wildest Complications Of 2019

While this might not be a complication in the technical watchmaking sense, it is a complicated watch to make (and it’s a whole lot more fun than a tourbillon in my opinion). The Cartier Révélation d’Une Panthère was first released in 2018 with small gold micro beads that floated through an unknown viscous liquid that had been patented (very complicated!). This past year Cartier replaced the gold beads with diamonds which really added something special. And just before you say this isn’t complicated, just think about how many times they had to test these watches to make sure they sank at the right speed. 

$249,000; cartier.com

Before you stop me to say that this watch isn’t really all that complicated, consider the fact that Bulgari’s Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic surpasses a record set for chronograph thinness that stood uncontested for more than three decades. And that this watch pairs its chronograph with a second complication in the form of a GMT. And that depending on who you ask, ultra-thin watchmaking can sometimes be seen almost as a type of complicated watchmaking in its own right. A few of the many things I love about this watch (there are lots; check out my Week On The Wrist for more) are that it delivers real over-the-top complexity combined wonderful wearability and pretty darn compelling value-proposition.

$17,600; bulgari.com

A complication is generally considered to be anything which provides information in addition to the time – the tourbillon, for instance, is classically not considered a complication per se, but rather, a regulating device, inasmuch as it provides no additional information, but rather is intended to allow the watch to keep a closer rate. (Why the tourbillon doesn’t make the cut to a classicist, but a repeater does, is probably a question for another day). Sometimes, however, the purpose of a complication is not so much to provide new information per se, but rather, to put a smile on your face. Thus, the Jacob & Co. Oil Pump, a multi-axis tourbillon watch with an automaton oil pump, which leaps into action on demand (the automaton, if I can use the term for an oil pump, is actuated by a pusher in the case). It’s utterly impractical, of course, but being practical is so obviously not the point of the watch, which is a classic example of just how far Jacob & Co. can go in generating entertainment value.

$380,000, JacobandCo.com.

Executing a Tourbillon properly is a rite of passage for any manufacturer aspiring to join the ranks of high horology. Executing a tourbillon in a fashion that moves the conversation forward and is truly innovative is something a manufacturer like F.P Journe would do. The F. P. Journe Tourbillon Souverain orients the tourbillon movement on a plane that’s perpendicular to the dial, and that small change completely transforms the watch. It contributes to the 13.6mm height, sure, but what I like most about this watch is the height. There’s a whole mechanical world, with many levels, inside that case. You’ve got to give something like a tourbillon movement some room to do what it’s meant to do. I like that the wearer can peer through the perfectly domed crystal into an entire of gears, springs, coils, bridges, and so forth. If it’s not a tool watch and ergonomics aren’t paramount, then might as well go all out, right? Turning a tourbillon on its side gives the watch another dimension, that’s both novel and visually fascinating. There’s a functional argument for the orientation of the tourbillon as well; for more, check out our technical breakdown in our Hands On from earlier this year.

CHF  244,500 in red gold; CHF 248,400 in platinum. FPJourne.com.

I love me some Greubel Forsey goodness. I always have. Well, at least since I first saw one of these watches in the metal for the first time back in 2012 at Marcus in London. At the time, I had no idea that watchmaking could be like this and I still get that sense of wonder and awe every time I see another one of Robert and Stephen’s incredible creations. This year’s show-stopper, the Quadruple Tourbillon GMT combines two of the brand’s most superlative complications, the globe-bearing GMT and the self-evidently insane quadruple tourbillon. Now you no longer have to choose! The finishing is off-the-charts good, the concept is absolutely bonkers, and you’re almost certainly never going to run into anyone wearing the same watch as you either. Now all we have to do is get GF working on a Secret Quadruple Tourbillon GMT…

$820,000; greubelforsey.com

Oh does your watch have a fusee and chain? Yeah, cool, mine too. But, like, no chain … I remember seeing this watch, the Christophe Claret Angelico, at SIHH early this year and it definitely qualifies for a spot on this list. In 5N red gold and 45.5mm wide, the Angelico is like wearing a small domed city on your wrist, with various elements of the movement stacked like architecture erected together under the steep curve of its crystal. The Angelico offers dual jumping hour displays for both local and home time, a radial minute display with a gem-set hand, an open tourbillon display, and an insanely cool cable fusee that replaces the traditional chain with a special cable made of super-strong Dyneema fiber. An eye-catching and notable example of haute horology, the Angelico is modern, inventive, and so much fun to have on wrist.